List of Images
Undergarments, Sarah A. Bendall
Banner image: Isabella’s chemise. Detail of Tiziano Vecellio (Titian), ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 1 Chemise, Italian, circa late sixteenth century. Linen, silk and metal thread. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 41.64.
Fig. 2 Shirt, English, circa. 1540. Linen, linen thread, silk thread. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, T.112-1972.
Fig. 3 Titian, Violante, circa 1510-15. Oil on canvas, 65 x 51 cm. Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Headdress (Zazara), Sarah Cockram
Banner image: Isabella’s zazara. Detail of Tiziano Vecellio (Titian), ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 1 Detail of Titian, ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 2 Giulio Romano, Portrait of Margherita Paleologa, c.1531, oil on panel, 115.3 x 91cm, Royal Collection Trust/ © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2020.
Sleeves, Tracey Griffiths
Banner image & Fig. 1: Isabella’s sleeve. Detail of Tiziano Vecellio (Titian), ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 2 Knot-work designs from the inventory of Isabella’s rooms. Il codice Stivini: inventario della collezione di Isabella d'Este nello studiolo nella grotta di corte vecchia in palazzo ducale di Mantova [Facsimile edition]. Edited by Roberta Iotti and Daniela Ferrari. Modena: Il Bulino,1995. Image: Facsimilefinder.
Fig. 3 Nicola da Urbino, ca. 1524. Jupiter and Semele, plate. Earthenware (maiolica), 2.9 × 27.1 cm diameter. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Felton Bequest, 1940. Photo: National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
Fig. 4 Ceiling of Isabella’s grotta in the Ducal Palace, Mantua. Image: Wikimedia commons/Zairon.
Fig. 5 Isabella's stemma, ceiling of the grotta in the Ducal Palace, Mantua. Image: Wikimedia commons/Zairon.
Fig. 6 Ceiling of Isabella’s studiolo in the Ducal Palace, Mantua. Image: Wikimedia commons/Zairon.
Fig. 7 Ceiling of Isabella’s studiolo in the Ducal Palace, Mantua. Image: Wikimedia commons/Zairon.
Political Self-Fashioning in the Portraits of Isabella d'Este, Carolyn James
Banner image: Detail of Peter Paul Rubens, ca.1600. Isabella d’Este, after Titian’s lost Isabella in Red (1529). Oil on canvas, 101,8 cm × 81 cm. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna.
Fig. 1 Peter Paul Rubens, ca.1600. Isabella d’Este, after Titian’s lost Isabella in Red (1529). Oil on canvas, 101,8 cm × 81 cm. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna.
Fig. 2 Giancristoforo Romano, ca.1495-98. Portrait medal of Isabella d’Este. Gold with diamonds and enamel, diameter 7 cm. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna.
Fig. 3 Leonardo da Vinci, 1499. Portrait of Isabella d’Este. Chalk, 61 x 46.5 cm. Paris, Louvre.
Furs, Patricia Lurati
Banner image: Detail of
Fig. 1. Isabella’s zibellino. Detail of Titian, ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 2. Cristofano dell'Altissimo, ca. 1535, after Sebastiano del Piombo? Giulia Gonzaga. Firenze, Gallerie degli Uffizi.
Fig. 3. Titian, ca. 1537. Portrait of Eleonora Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino. Oil on canvas, 114 x 103 cm. Firenze, Gallerie degli Uffizi.
Fig. 4. Parmagianino (Francesco Mazzola), ca. 1535. Portrait of a Young Lady. Napoli, Museo di Capodimonte.
Fig. 5. Marten’s head. Venice, ca. 1550-1559. Gold with enamel, rubies, garnets, and pearls. Baltimore, Walters Art Museum.
Male Fashions, Timothy McCall
Banner image: Detail of Titian (Tiziano Vecellio), Federico Gonzaga, Ist Duke of Mantua, 1529. Oil on panel, 125 x 99cm. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado, P000408.
Fig. 1 Francesco Francia, Federico Gonzaga, 1510. Tempera on wood, 47.9 x 35.6cm. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14.40.638.
Fig. 2 Titian (Tiziano Vecellio), Federico Gonzaga, Ist Duke of Mantua, 1529. Oil on panel, 125 x 99cm. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado, P000408.
Spanish heels and golden brocade: Isabella visits Venice, Jennifer McFarland
Banner image: Pair of chopines. Venice, ca. 1600-1620. Wood, leather, silk velvet, silk ribbon, silver-gilt thread, gilt metal, bobbin lace. 20.5 cm x 10.7 x 9 cm. London, Victoria & Albert Museum, 929&A-1901.
Fig. 1 Jost Amman, Procession of the Doge to the Bucintoro on Ascension Day, with a View of Venice, ca. 1565 (detail). Woodcut, third state. 75.6 x 186.7 cm. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Fig. 2 Pianelle, Venice ca. 1600. Wood and carved and stamped leather, 36.5cm (h). Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, 17550 (5787: 97) © Livrustkammaren.
Fig. 3 Pair of chopines. Venice, ca. 1600-1620. Wood, leather, silk velvet, silk ribbon, silver-gilt thread, gilt metal, bobbin lace. 20.5 x 10.7 x 9 cm. London, Victoria & Albert Museum, 929&A-1901.
Fig. 4 Pair of chopines. Spain, ca. 1580-1620. Cork and silk damask, with stamped decoration on the insole. 16 cm x 10 cm x 12.5 cm. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, T.419&A-1913. Given by Messrs Harrods Ltd.
Fig. 5 Vittore Carpaccio, 1495. Dream of Saint Ursula. Tempera and oil on canvas, 274cm x 267cm. Venice, Gallerie dell’Accademia.
Lace, Adelina Modesti
Banner image: Isabella’s cuff. Detail of Tiziano Vecellio (Titian), ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 1 Border, Italian needle lace cut work, 1550-1600. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, T.318-1912.
Fig. 2 Reticella Border, linen with cut and drawn work decoration, Italy, 1580-1600. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, 487-1903.
Fig. 3 Ruff edging of linen needle lace (reticella and punto in aria), Italy, 1600-1620. Given from the collection of Mary, Viscountess Harcourt. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, T.14-1965.
Fig. 4. Frans Pourbus the Younger, ca. a. 1602-03. Portrait of Empress Eleonora Gonzaga. Oil on canvas, 64 x 49 cm. Florence, Palazzo Pitti. Image: Uffizi Galleries.
Fig. 5. Cuff (one of a pair), 17th century. Needle lace, gros point lace, 59.7 x 20.3 cm. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 30.135.153a. (CC0 1.0)
Fig. 6. Pattern design for reticella lace, from Elisabetta Catanea Parasole, Teatro delle nobili e virtuose donne, Rome 1616, p. 7.
Dolls, fashion and Diplomacy, Jessica O’Leary
Banner image & Fig. 1 Francesco Francia, Federico Gonzaga, 1510. Tempera on wood, 47.9 x 35.6cm. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14.40.638.
Fig. 2 Fashion doll?, ca. 1590s. Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, 77 (56:15) 260 © Göran Schmidt/Livrustkammaren (CC BY-SA).
Isabella d’Este: Fashion Innovator and Trendsetter, Margaret Rosenthal
Banner image: ‘Donzella Ferrarese’. From Codicetto Bottacin. Early seventeenth century. Padua, Museo Civico, fol. 17.
Fig. 1 ‘Venetian Courtesans in a Gondola rowed by servants’. From Künstliche Wolgerissene… (Frankfurt, 1582). London, The British Library © British Library Board, MS Eg. 1208, fol. 19.
Fig. 2 ‘Sposa Venetiana in gondola’. From Album of Sigismundus Ortelius…, 1573-79. London, The British Library © British Library Board, MS Eg. 1191, fol. 63.
Fig. 3 ‘Sposa Venetiana per Gondola’. From an album amicorum of a German soldier, 1595. Los Angeles, Los Angeles Museum of Art, MS. 91.
Fig. 4 ‘Una Donzella Ferrarese’. From Mores Italiae, 1575. Yale University, Beinecke Library. MS 457, fol. 19.
Fig. 5 ‘Donzella Ferrarese’. From an album amicorum of a German soldier, 1595. Los Angeles, Los Angeles Museum of Art, MS. 91, fol. 34.
Fig. 6 ‘Donzella Ferrarese’. From Codicetto Bottacin. Early seventeenth century. Padua, Museo Civico, fol. 17.
Fig. 7 Pietro Bertelli, ’Virgo Ferrariensis’. From Diversarum nationum Ornatus (Padua: Alciati, 1589), fol. 20 (detail). Yale, Beinecke Library.
Fig. 8 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Early Noblewomen Outside Their House, with the Dogalina’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 57.
Fig. 9 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Venetian Clothing of Former Times, From Only a Hundred Years Ago or Slightly More’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 93.
Fig. 10 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Clothing Worn in Venice, and throughout Italy’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 94.
Fig. 11 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Clothing of Venice and Other Places in Italy’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 96.
Fig. 12 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Clothing Formerly Worn by men and Women in Padua’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 214.
Fig. 13 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Patrician Woman of Augsburg’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 304.
Fig. 14 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Married Women of Padua’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 216.
Fig. 15 ‘Donzella Padoana’. From Album of Sigismundus Ortelius …, 1573-79. London, The British Library © British Library Board, MS Eg. 1191, fol. 82.
Fig.16 ‘Veneta Virginis’. Italian, late sixteenth century. New York, Pierpont Morgan Library, MS PML 5675, fol. 9.
Fig. 17 ‘Donzella Padoana’. From Codicetto Bottacin, early seventeenth century. Padua, Museo Civico di Padova, fol. 13.
Fig. 18 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Married Noblewomen of Pisa’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 243.
Fig. 19 Cesare Vecellio, ‘Brides of Padua’. From Habiti Antichi Et Moderni Di Diverse Parti Del Mondo (Venice: Zenaro, 1590), 249.
Fig. 20 'Gentildonna Ferrarese'. From an album amicorum of a German soldier, 1595). Los Angeles, Los Angeles Museum of Art, MS. 91, fol. 33.
Fig. 21 ‘Una Gentildonna Maritata Padoana.’ From Mores Italiae, 1575. Yale University, Beinecke Library. MS 457, fol. 28.
Fig. 22 ‘Una Novizza.’ From Mores Italiae, 1575). Yale University, Beinecke Library. MS 457, fol. 84.
Fig. 23 ‘Cortegiana Padoana‘. From an album amicorum of a German soldier, 1595. Los Angeles, Los Angeles Museum of Art, MS. 91, fol. 61.
Patronage and Piety: portraits of Isabella d’Este and Lucrezia Borgia, Carl Villis
Banner image & Fig. 1 Dosso Dossi, Battista Dossi (attributed) ca. 1519-30. Lucrezia Borgia, Duchess of Ferrara. Oil on wood panel, 74.5 x 57.2 cm. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Felton Bequest, 1966 © National Gallery of Victoria.
Fig. 2 Tiziano Vecellio (Titian), ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 3 Leonardo da Vinci, 1499-1500. Portrait of Isabella d’Este. Chalk on paper, 61 x 46.5cm. Paris, Louvre © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre)/Michel Urtado.
Fig. 4 Isabella’s sleeve, detail of Titian, ca. 1534-36. Isabella d’Este, Marchesa of Mantua. Oil on canvas, 102.4 x 64.7cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig. 5 Lucrezia Borgia, detail of Dossi, Lucrezia Borgia, Duchess of Ferrara. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Felton Bequest, 1966.
Fig. 6 Detail of Dossi, Lucrezia Borgia, Duchess of Ferrara. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Felton Bequest, 1966.
A Dodo in the Garden of Eden: Tapestries and Italian Influence at the Polish Court, Darius von Güttner
Banner image & Fig. 1 Workshop of Jan de Kempeneer. Paradise Bliss from the History of the First Parents series, ca. 1550. Wool, silk and silver thread, 854 x 480cm. Krakow, Wawel Royal Castle – State Art Collection. Image: Muzea Małopolska, http://muzea.malopolska.pl/en/obiekty/-/a/4869610/4889945
Fig. 2 Detail of the Dodo from Paradise Bliss.
Fig. 3 Workshop of Pieter van Aelst the Younger, ca. 1550. God Conversing with Noah, from the Story of Noah series. Wool, silk, silver thread and gold thread, 467 x 525cm. Krakow, Wawel Royal Castle – State Art Collection. Image: Muzea Małopolska, http://muzea.malopolska.pl/en/obiekty/-/a/4869610/13718523
Fig. 4 Workshop of Jan van Tieghem, ca. 1555. Tapestry with the Arms of Poland and Lithuania and the Figure of Victory. Wool, silk, silver thread and gold thread, 156 x 292.5cm. Krakow, Wawel Royal Castle – State Art Collection. Image: Muzea Małopolska, http://muzea.malopolska.pl/en/obiekty/-/a/4869610/13754586
Fashion Dolls, Margot Yeomans
Banner image: Fashion doll?, ca. 1590s. Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, 77 (56:15) 260 © Göran Schmidt/Livrustkammaren (CC BY-SA).
Fig. 1 Master of the St George’s Guild, 1502. Isabella of Austria with doll, detail from Archduke Charles, the later Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, with his sisters Eleonore and Isabella at the age of 2 years. Wood, 31.5cm x 14cm. Vienna, Kunsthistoriches Museum © KHM-Museumsverband.
Fig 2 Lady Arabella Stuart, later Duchess of Somerset (1575 – 1615), aged 23 months. Oil on panel transferred to canvas, 75.1 x 61.5cm. Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire © National Trust.
Fig. 3 Fashion doll?, ca. 1590s. Stockholm, Livrustkammaren, 77 (56:15) 260 © Göran Schmidt/Livrustkammaren (CC BY-SA).